If you watch a vid of a dirt midget or sprint car you will see the drivers going through the turns turning the wheels almost full lock left and right reacting to the signals from the tires. You have to be able to give the car the steering input required instantly. There is NO time to have to be hand over hand with slow steering. About 3/4 of a turn lock to lock and these cars have a ton of lock available. One of the first requirements is very fast steering. They are highly refined inspite of the low tech parts. It was a mind expanding journeyĭirt midgets have straight front axles, torque tube rear suspension, torsion bars or coil overs, no anti sway bars, relatively high CG, big tires, etc. I bought a book and a tape from Steve Smith and did a bunch of research. I was doing race car fab at the time so I had the equipment and skills, just absolutely no idea about the suspension geometry requirements. It was such an amazingly fun car to drive that I set out to build my own midget. Re torsion bars get a sway bar on it first, then see if it still needs stiffer springs.Īfter years of driving and building SCCA Solo 1, 2 and club racing cars I got a chance to drive a dirt midget a few times in a track day sort of setting. They'll last you a season or two and change the steering completely.Īn 18-19mm rear swaybar will also help you to transfer some weight to the front end in corners. Are they dirt tyres? Coz they don't look like any rally tyre I've ever seen. I've (aka Pete Wood) mentioned this to you on Facebook before but the issue is your front tyres. I have similar issues mid corner, and I think the stiffer rate up front and a sway will help with that. I think it will need to be a mixture of both. Be it static or dynamic with spring rates. This is a big issue as I can't get the rear around and end up with terminal understeer. TouringBubble wrote:One of my big issues is that I have almost no front grip on turn in.
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